'65 Standard

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Dual Port
Posts: 984
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:06 am

Re: '65 Standard

Post by Dual Port » Tue Nov 28, 2017 9:26 pm

Yes, I know these are out of order, forgive me.

Pinch the locknut.
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Cut the nut off the plug that was welded on, grind smooth, RTV the plug in place.
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Put the tube on.
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Install snap ring.
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Put the tube retainer on with RTV and flange nuts.
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Install the RGB housing with a thin coat of RTV.
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Ta Da!
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Lather, rinse, repeat.
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Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus

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Dual Port
Posts: 984
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:06 am

Re: '65 Standard

Post by Dual Port » Tue Nov 28, 2017 9:44 pm

Here's the final result of all of my work. You wouldn't believe this, but to clean, paint and assemble the axles (nothing inside the trans!) I checked my calendar, I have 7 full (6 hour) days. This is assembling the axles, blasting/painting the (4) brake backing plates, chasing all of the threads, checking/replacing bearings, replacing nose bushings, freeing up/replacing clutch arm/shaft, and blasting the wheels and painting them. The wheels and axles were shot with a gun, the trans case was rattle can. I probably have 20something hours in the tranny and axles alone. Is it because I do a good job, or am I getting older and slower? Don't answer that.
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Here's the HF kit I used, 93980.
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Before and after of what $hit looks like.
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I pulled the junk tranny from the bus today to get ready to stick the "good" one in.
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I knew the trans (and bus) was submerged at one time so I expected the worst. It didn't disappoint me. ;)
That's a hole in the side cover.
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Wow, what a F'ing mess. That's goop all over the ring gear and in the bottom of the case. The side bearings are seized and the input shaft won't turn.
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The tires came (Hankook RA18's from WalMart, $77/ea) and the wheels are ready.
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While the tranny's out I'm going to reset my spring plates. I can tell it will have too much camber by just rolling it around. I looked up my pics on the '66 and it's virtually exactly the same number- set to the service manual. I need to drop it back about 3 degrees.
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Last edited by Dual Port on Wed Nov 29, 2017 10:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus

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Ken
Posts: 1855
Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2008 8:18 am

Re: '65 Standard

Post by Ken » Wed Nov 29, 2017 9:14 am

Looking good :D
1963 Single Cab
1964 Bowman & Sons Camper (Vegas Bus)
1966 Westy S0-42 Hardtop
1967 Westy SO-42 Pop Top
1968 Single Cab

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Karl Kombi
Posts: 69
Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2017 9:56 am

Re: '65 Standard

Post by Karl Kombi » Thu Nov 30, 2017 8:56 am

I think you should spray paint the old trans silver and sell it to the guy in Ashtabula. :P

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Dual Port
Posts: 984
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:06 am

Re: '65 Standard

Post by Dual Port » Sat Dec 09, 2017 4:36 pm

I reset my spring plates about 3* lower, that should put my camber about right. Before sticking the tranny in, I noticed the clutch cable tube is only welded on one side from the factory. The bracket is welded really nice, but the tube is not. :? When this breaks (not unusual, according to W5) you lose your clutch. :(
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We have the technology. Yes, I blew out the tubes, I had already run a cable/drill through them on a drill with brakeclean a while back.
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On to tranny install:

There's a sequence that's kind of important, if you screwed it up really bad you could break something. First, I put the rear mounts on the bellhousing, but leave the 4 8mm bolts/nuts loose. Note the Bowden tube is in place, it's easier now than later.
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Stick the whole assembly up and in, line it up and pull it into the forward mount.
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This is where I need the two special nuts- they're 10x1.5, but have a 15mm hex rather than the normal 17mm hex to clear the nosecone. I also need a skinny box wrench, this is where I go for the good Snappy wrench instead of the normal DD wrenches. I put the nuts on and bring them down, but not tight yet. Leave them relaxed so the nose can move around in them if needed.
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Put the two monster bolts in the frame horn and tighten them. Now, make sure the case is level, I eyeball it, but you could use a level if you're geometrically challenged. The tranny needs to be level in the body for two reasons- first the engine looks stupid if it's setting at an angle. Second, your shifter might be wonky if the tranny isn't level. Now tighten the rear mount bolts/nuts, notice they're still loose in this picture. Then go back and put the final torque on the funny 15mm nuts up front.
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Your Bowden tube should have a bit of a bow in it, this prevents clutch chatter from your tranny mounts flexing and moving the clutch cable at the same time.
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Bolt up your spring plates, and you need to level the axles to install split boots. (One of these days I'll order some 1 piece boots.....) I have a hillbilly homemade tool that goes in the shock mounts to compress the torsion bar and level the axle.
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Now install your boots.
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Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus

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Dual Port
Posts: 984
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:06 am

Re: '65 Standard

Post by Dual Port » Sat Dec 09, 2017 4:45 pm

Now connect your shifter coupler to the tube which you already installed (you did install it, right? :lol: )
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Don't forget the tie wire.
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My axle spacers were rough and pitted, this is what the axle seal rides on so it has to be perfect.
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But the new WW weren't perfect, either.....
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Until I chucked them up and polished them with some 600 grit.
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Those pictures were taken through one of those old-man-lighted-magnifying-glasses. I have several around the shop. :roll:
The internet experts say that polishing the front shift tube where it rides in the plastic bushing will make it shift like Porsche, so I hit it on the wheel with some compound.
PB290046.JPG
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus

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Dual Port
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Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:06 am

Re: '65 Standard

Post by Dual Port » Sat Dec 09, 2017 5:05 pm

Now assemble the brakes, I already did the fronts but didn't take any pictures. All new shit and drums cut.
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Now that '67 master cylinders have become realistic in price, I decided to go that route, buying the cheapie one from Cip1 and a $1 Rabbit reservoir from the Toledo swap meet. Sellers have the reservoir new but it's not cheap like me.
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No spacer is needed like when you use a Bay MC and it fits nicely. In the Bentley it shows '67 MC travel at 32mm, I measured my pushrod throw without the MC in place and it's exactly 32mm. '67s use a slightly different pushrod but I checked mine and there's no binding or anything using a /66 pushrod.

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Run your lines now, and you'll need another tee fitting near the MC to feed the front lines since there's only one front outlet rather than two like most have.
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Yes, the line goes through a grommet. I could have wired the brake light switches in parallel but I didn't see the need. The second switch is a dummy/bad switch I had on the shelf.
PC090016.JPG
Last edited by Dual Port on Wed Dec 13, 2017 9:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus

User avatar
Dual Port
Posts: 984
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:06 am

Re: '65 Standard

Post by Dual Port » Sat Dec 09, 2017 5:20 pm

Most of you probably know this, but the tip when connecting to a hose is to put the line through the bracket,
connect the hose to it..
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.....
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Then tighten it down. It's much harder to start the fitting when it's already in the bracket. This is another place where the 'spensive wrenches pay off- good line wrenches don't flex like cheapie line wrenches.
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Don't forget the rubber grommets and horseshoe clips.
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I usually use a vacuum bleeder setup, but the '67 has check valves in the fluid outlets that have a crack point higher than atmospheric so it won't work. Here's a shot from a few years ago so you know what I'm talking about.
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I just did the pump-the-pedal thing by myself and it worked fine, maybe even easier than vacuum bleeding. Another tip is to lock all of the drums tight with the adjusters before bleeding. When you go to check your "pedal" this eliminates any slop from your not-broken-in-yet shoes. When you check your pedal and the air is gone, it will be rock hard. When you're done, back off the adjusters a few clicks and go for a ride.
Last edited by Dual Port on Fri Dec 22, 2017 6:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus

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Dual Port
Posts: 984
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:06 am

Re: '65 Standard

Post by Dual Port » Sat Dec 09, 2017 5:30 pm

Time to prep the engine and stuff it.
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Not much prep was needed since it is a good 1600SP I pulled out of Bus 1 last spring. I dug through my crap and found a good used German clutch assy and German TOB. I hit the PP with a DA and some 120 grit to freshen it up. I think these came off a core motor, they're like brand new. :mrgreen:
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In she goes.
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Thunk!
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Route the fuel line and filter, and secure it to the bottom of the tank tray.
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It seems like the throttle cable Bowden tube always needs to be shortened about 1", so I did.
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View from below, note the filterpump.
PC090002.JPG
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus

User avatar
Dual Port
Posts: 984
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:06 am

Re: '65 Standard

Post by Dual Port » Sat Dec 09, 2017 5:42 pm

The heater tubes from WW come with a spring in them which restricts the flow of warm air. I take them apart and substitute "hardware cloth" which is a 1/4" mesh.
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Wrap the heater tube with Nasa bubble wrap.
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And torque the axle nuts to 250 with my new toy.
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AND FINALLY GO FOR A RIDE! You don't need stupid shit like doors and windows to go for test ride, do you? :D The heater really sucked with all of that air leakage.
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It drives great, the tranny seems to work fine (for all of 2 miles, anyway, which is all I could stand at 28F) but to say it shifts like a Porsche is a bit of a stretch. People looked at me like I was a looney...... :mrgreen:
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus

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