Bill's T4 engine build

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wwebner
Posts: 3502
Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2008 7:34 am

Re: Bill's T4 engine build

Post by wwebner » Mon Dec 30, 2019 12:02 pm

In my last post, I was a little vague on setting end play, and I had no pics of my build. So, I thought I would mock it up and provide a little more info. First, shims are sold in metric increments. So here's a little chart.
0.24mm= .0095in
0.30mm= .0118in
0.32mm= .0126in
0.34mm= .0134in
0.36mm= .0142in
0.38mm= .0150in
I doubt that any of us have a metric dial indicator or micrometer.
as mention prior, I pick 2 shims and measure them.
We'll call this one .013 (actually .0134)
end play 002.jpg
This one .014 (actually .0142)
end play 003.jpg
So, we have a 2 shim set of .027in
Install them on the crank.
end play 005.jpg
Before we install the flywheel, clean up the mating surfaces and remove the o ring if it is still there. ( don't forget to install the new o ring from the gasket set before final installation of the flywheel)
end play 008.jpg
clean well, both mating surfaces.
end play 011.jpg
A good time to clean up and polish the nose that sits in the oil seal. Some fine steel wool works.
end play 009.jpg
I like to polish this area. check for any grooves. Just make sure it's nice and smooth to avoid oil leaks.
end play 010.jpg
Install the flywheel and attempt to torque it. this can be difficult to get to 80 ft.lbs without a flywheel lock, A large flat blade screw driver in the flywheel teeth will work. Get the bolts as tight as you can. Even is more important than getting to actual torque spec. Getting a dial indicator mounted is also tricky when working with just the case half. So. we are going to use a feeler gauge here.
Here we have a nice tight .020in.
end play 007.jpg
Now for some math.
we want to get to .004in (+- .001) to be at spec.
We have .027in in shims. .020in gap. deduct the .004 from the .020in. that we want for our desired end play = .016 shim needed for the 3rd shim. there is no .016 shim, so we use .015 and should end up with .005in for our end play.
You can work various combinations for this. But, in searching various suppliers, they cost between $8-$10 each.so use what you have and determine the shim you need before dropping $'s on a bunch of sizes.

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wwebner
Posts: 3502
Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2008 7:34 am

Re: Bill's T4 engine build

Post by wwebner » Sat Jan 04, 2020 1:08 pm

OK. Back to getting the case have ready to assemble. NOTE: we will check end play after assembly again.
First, get all the case hardware together. There are 20 bolts/nuts, including the 6 long thru bolts around the crankshaft.
(you did set them aside ;) ) I had all mine plated, as a local plater will plate a hole bucket full of stuff for $50, and I had a bunch of other grungy stuff to plate. Nice part is, he has to bath them before plating, which saves the time ans mess of my doing it.
2L 118.jpg
2L 086.jpg
ALL the nuts and washers get a little Permatex to seal them up.
2L 119.jpg
Type 4 main thru bolts get this to hold them in place,the bolts install from the case half that is now on it's side.
2L 120.jpg
Don't forget the cam plug.Wipe the circumfrence with some Permatex 3H. One of the few places that RTV is acceptable,if you choose.
Smear some white grease on the gears. This helps cushion and lube things up until we get oil pressure when we first crank it over.
rods 024.jpg
Some cam lube on the cam lobes. In the "old days" we used STP for this.
2L 115.jpg
Wipe both case halves clean with a rag and brake cleaner.
Now we can apply the case parting line sealer. As Bruce mentioned, there are many and they all work, except, NO RTV here. It builds too thick and does not allow for proper bearing crush. I have been using Locktite 518. One case half only.
2L 131.jpg
You can smear it around.
Picture 040.jpg
Short break.

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wwebner
Posts: 3502
Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2008 7:34 am

Re: Bill's T4 engine build

Post by wwebner » Sat Jan 04, 2020 2:30 pm

Now we are ready to mate the case halves. Before we do, this thread is not meant to be a step by step instruction. Just a guide. You do need a manual or two. The Robert Bentley, and Tom Wilson's " How to rebuild your Aircooled VW engine are excellent.
Now, an extra pair of hands helps. You need tho get the 6 main case bolts aligned in the other case half, while holding the 1 & 2 connecting rods up. I tied the rods after getting the thru bolts inserted in the other case half.
2L 132.jpg
When you get the case halves seated, coat the washers and threads with some Permatex 3H.
2L 133.jpg
I like to snug these up and rotate the assembly before going any further. You can bolt the flywheel on to help rotate.
rotate several times. If all is good, install the rest of the case parting hardware. There are wavy washers on all of them,bolt heads and nuts. I still like to put a little 3H on them.
Don't miss this one.
2L 137.jpg
Or this one. I like to get this one first (after the 6 main), just to be sure the pick up tube is aligned. Sealer here,along with the wavy washer is important, as it sits in the sump area.
2L 134.jpg
Torque them all according to sequence in the manual. Rotate the assembly often to be sure nothing is binding.
Once you are satisfied that all is good, wipe excess sealer from the oil pump area, and both crank seal areas.
Picture 048.jpg
2L 138.jpg
Whoo Hoo.
2L 136.jpg

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