Smittie-Lizzie
Re: Smittie-Lizzie
It's pretty amazing to see a photographic account of a Type IV rebuild, especially by such a knowledgeable person!
Nick a.k.a. Parts-whore, Young Nick, Subwoofer Nick, Nebraska Nick, Doc, the Amish connection.
Now: 1967 bug, 68 westy, 70 bus, 70 westy, 70 bug (FS), 71 westy, 71 bug
Past: 58 bug, 66 bug, 68 bug, 68 westy, 71 super, 74 super
Now: 1967 bug, 68 westy, 70 bus, 70 westy, 70 bug (FS), 71 westy, 71 bug
Past: 58 bug, 66 bug, 68 bug, 68 westy, 71 super, 74 super
Re: Smittie-Lizzie
I am so excited to see her get done, even if he wont let me help, and I am glad EVERYONE else gets to watch too...I guess. But it feels a little violating But I guess its a good lesson for ME to learn and others can enjoy the "peep show"
My poor Lizzie
Doc Chuck is in da house
My poor Lizzie
Doc Chuck is in da house
If she's amazing, she won't be easy...
If she's easy, she won't be amazing...
Well look at that...I must be the amazingest!
If she's easy, she won't be amazing...
Well look at that...I must be the amazingest!
Re: Smittie-Lizzie
this looks all to familiar of a prodject chuck .hahaha.looking good and keep the excellent write up goin.
the best ideas are often the worst choices.
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Re: Smittie-Lizzie
Matt Keith came over to help with the bottom end disassembly, nothing too unexpected, except the cam bearings...
Splitting a type 4 case is pretty straight forward, Matt & I got right to it and didn't stop to take too many photos:
1) remove cylinders & pistons, the wrist pin on the most melted piston was not going to be removed, we had to remove the piston & connecting rod as a unit.
2) remove all the 8mm & 6mm case bolt/nuts & bottom sump cover, on type 4 motors I always suggest that newbies remove all the case bolts and when they are certain they got all of them to then go back and remove the last 2.
3) remove the oil pump, type 4 oil pumps have 2 tabs on the sides to get 2 large screwdrivers under to pry out, usually quite easy.
4) remove the nuts & washers from the 6 main case bolts, the bolts will remain with one case half.
5) to split the case I use a composite dead blow hammer, and just hit the loose half around the perimeter, after a few hits the case should begin to split, if not STOP! and look for any remaining bolts that may have been missed, do NOT pry the case halves apart with anything.
6) Once the case has been opened, the internals can be removed, make sure to remove the 5 main bearing pins and put them somewhere they won't get lost.
Crankshaft/ connecting rod disassembly requires a cam gear puller or some sort of press.
Broken part recap: oil cooler seals: outlet OK, inlet cooked to a crisp, hard, shrunk, discolored, leaking.
Piston, no explaination needed.
Cam bearings, melted & delaminating, this motor got very hot, more to follow....
Splitting a type 4 case is pretty straight forward, Matt & I got right to it and didn't stop to take too many photos:
1) remove cylinders & pistons, the wrist pin on the most melted piston was not going to be removed, we had to remove the piston & connecting rod as a unit.
2) remove all the 8mm & 6mm case bolt/nuts & bottom sump cover, on type 4 motors I always suggest that newbies remove all the case bolts and when they are certain they got all of them to then go back and remove the last 2.
3) remove the oil pump, type 4 oil pumps have 2 tabs on the sides to get 2 large screwdrivers under to pry out, usually quite easy.
4) remove the nuts & washers from the 6 main case bolts, the bolts will remain with one case half.
5) to split the case I use a composite dead blow hammer, and just hit the loose half around the perimeter, after a few hits the case should begin to split, if not STOP! and look for any remaining bolts that may have been missed, do NOT pry the case halves apart with anything.
6) Once the case has been opened, the internals can be removed, make sure to remove the 5 main bearing pins and put them somewhere they won't get lost.
Crankshaft/ connecting rod disassembly requires a cam gear puller or some sort of press.
Broken part recap: oil cooler seals: outlet OK, inlet cooked to a crisp, hard, shrunk, discolored, leaking.
Piston, no explaination needed.
Cam bearings, melted & delaminating, this motor got very hot, more to follow....
Re: Smittie-Lizzie
Like me Guess I'm too hot to drive her NOT!
If she's amazing, she won't be easy...
If she's easy, she won't be amazing...
Well look at that...I must be the amazingest!
If she's easy, she won't be amazing...
Well look at that...I must be the amazingest!
Re: Smittie-Lizzie
Thanks for the great step by step write up of the engine breakdown process Chuck (and whomever else is assisting) Very informative. I hope you continue to post these detailed notes throughout the rebuild as well.
Not that I like to benefit from anyones misfortune. Hope that your back up and running soon Smittie.
Not that I like to benefit from anyones misfortune. Hope that your back up and running soon Smittie.
Re: Smittie-Lizzie
Me tooo....I am so anxious!!!
If she's amazing, she won't be easy...
If she's easy, she won't be amazing...
Well look at that...I must be the amazingest!
If she's easy, she won't be amazing...
Well look at that...I must be the amazingest!
Re: Smittie-Lizzie
Yeah? What did make that happen? and how do I avoid that EVER AGAIN???
If she's amazing, she won't be easy...
If she's easy, she won't be amazing...
Well look at that...I must be the amazingest!
If she's easy, she won't be amazing...
Well look at that...I must be the amazingest!