Parker Beene Deluxe
Re: New member!
good luck trying to get that off be careful the springs are under alot of tension...they will try to kill you
Re: New member!
Not to go all Buckwild as far as solutions go, but can you pound it back into shape without removing?
- parker beene
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Sat Mar 30, 2013 8:02 pm
Re: New member!
I read that they have around 200 lbs of force so I might try pounding it first. It seems scary though haha
Re: New member!
Parker, man you got a sweet split window! Like yours mine was beat to hell from all the salt and god knows what else. There wasn't a floor in sight... At all. I lost my job the day before i got my spilt. So my budget went from "my garage is gonna be filled with funky green" too ohhh snaps..!!! How the hell am i gonna afford this now?? Well.. Some of the memebers here gave me some misc parts. One of them gave me like 40 foot roll of sheet steel!! Im a 15 year welder/fabricator so ive got that behind me. And i just started cutting and cutting and cut some more and then some more. And then after i got all that cut out everything behind it needed cut out.. Wtf. I got the rustiest bus on the samba. I didn't give a shit. I had the will and i found the way. That front floor you dont have. I made mine myself. Heres how you do it and its so simple your not gonna belive it. Measure the front floor and go the the scrap yard and find a proper thickness piece of sheet steel thats larger then the front floor. Then go to harbor freight and get yourself a 4 and 1/2" angle grinder and a pack of 4 and 1/2 "cut off" wheels. Dont forget to buy the extended warrenty on the angle grinders. Its 5 bucks. I have 3 of them and when one breaks i bust out a new one and return the broken one under warrenty next time im there. So my 1 warrenty works for all 3 and i always got a new one I say this because you got alot of work and the grinders are not the greatest. Now, back to the floor. So now u got a piece of sheet steel and a grinder with a cut off wheel. Now all you need is the rubber floor mat for the front floor. Lay the mat on top of the sheet steel and trace it to the steel. Cut it 1/8" bigger then the line you traced. Note the bend in the floor. Measure it from the front of the floor to the crease of the bend then do the same on the templet you just cut. Lay a board across it on your marks and slowly work your way down it bending it by hand. Total cost:
Grinder 20
Cutoff wheels 10
Sheet steel from scrap yard like 15¢ a pound.
It be under $40 all together and you will have a new steel floor!! For the back floor find some corrigated steel at the scrap yard. Usually from old factories that have been torn down. Thats what i used for mine!
And that 1500 you got... USE IT!! I was so worried about having this sweet engine and a rust free bus that i never even got to enjoy it!! I spent 7 months welding and cutting and welding and cutting. I built this 1835cc with huge carbs and all this shit i really never needed and in the end... I never got to drive it!! I traded it for a porsche. Not something i wanted to do but i didnt have the shop i have now and my welcome was running out. So after just went thru this you really should focus on just getting it driveable and not a show piece. Im probably the most resourceful person on this site when it comes to "budget building" but you dont wanna do that really, you want to do things the right way. 6 volt hit it on the money. "You get what you paid for" im still learning that!! That "budget panel place" the shit is junk and you'll have more time spent "making it work" then anything. Not trying to make you spend money man. Trying to save you a huge headache. Also who ever mentioned getting a welder and flux core wire from harbor frieght.. Do it!! It not hard to learn how to lay a decent bead with em and it'll save you thousands if not 10's of thousands in the long run. So go get some sheet steel and make em yourself and if you dont have the floor mat to use as a templet im sure someone on the site could make u the templet with theirs or have a shitty one you can have to use as a templet.
Grinder 20
Cutoff wheels 10
Sheet steel from scrap yard like 15¢ a pound.
It be under $40 all together and you will have a new steel floor!! For the back floor find some corrigated steel at the scrap yard. Usually from old factories that have been torn down. Thats what i used for mine!
And that 1500 you got... USE IT!! I was so worried about having this sweet engine and a rust free bus that i never even got to enjoy it!! I spent 7 months welding and cutting and welding and cutting. I built this 1835cc with huge carbs and all this shit i really never needed and in the end... I never got to drive it!! I traded it for a porsche. Not something i wanted to do but i didnt have the shop i have now and my welcome was running out. So after just went thru this you really should focus on just getting it driveable and not a show piece. Im probably the most resourceful person on this site when it comes to "budget building" but you dont wanna do that really, you want to do things the right way. 6 volt hit it on the money. "You get what you paid for" im still learning that!! That "budget panel place" the shit is junk and you'll have more time spent "making it work" then anything. Not trying to make you spend money man. Trying to save you a huge headache. Also who ever mentioned getting a welder and flux core wire from harbor frieght.. Do it!! It not hard to learn how to lay a decent bead with em and it'll save you thousands if not 10's of thousands in the long run. So go get some sheet steel and make em yourself and if you dont have the floor mat to use as a templet im sure someone on the site could make u the templet with theirs or have a shitty one you can have to use as a templet.
- parker beene
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Sat Mar 30, 2013 8:02 pm
Re: New member!
pulled out the engine,will be taking it into the shop this saturday for some very serious and much needed work
i accidentally stripped the nut that i have my buddy pointing to directly behind the case, so i had to get on my knees with a pair of vice-grips for an extra couple hours, while he sat underneath holding the bolt still... smh, at least that's over with.
I will be back when everything looks shiny and new
i accidentally stripped the nut that i have my buddy pointing to directly behind the case, so i had to get on my knees with a pair of vice-grips for an extra couple hours, while he sat underneath holding the bolt still... smh, at least that's over with.
I will be back when everything looks shiny and new
Re: New member!
Nice job. Is that a 40 HP? Is it locked up? Are you pulling the trans too?
Re: New member!
if its 40hp get rid of it...
Its too dangerous to drive your bus with one of those installed
Its too dangerous to drive your bus with one of those installed
Re: New member!
The long bolt through the started should be a D head bolt, part number 111-199-101. It is 10x1.5mm.
- parker beene
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Sat Mar 30, 2013 8:02 pm
Re: New member!
I was told it was original to the bus and was a 1500cc but I'm not sure the horsepower- I would guess 40hp. I just posted the code and according to the samba it's a 1971? Any help or ideas would be appreciated. My bus is an early 1965, so maybe they replaced the engine? I'm not sure.
Also Sean, the engine is not locked up surprisingly! It turns freely but when I drained the line there was nothing in it, same with oil. But I don't know the real condition until I start taking it apart.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/inf ... etters.php
Also Sean, the engine is not locked up surprisingly! It turns freely but when I drained the line there was nothing in it, same with oil. But I don't know the real condition until I start taking it apart.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/inf ... etters.php
- parker beene
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Sat Mar 30, 2013 8:02 pm
Re: New member!
I would like to take the trans out soon, but I can only take baby steps right now... Baby steps haha