Because I want to go 70 mph on a budget and other changes...

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Marla
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Re: Because I want to go 70 mph on a budget and other changes...

Post by Marla » Mon May 22, 2017 6:07 am

Way to go Rick! All things considered, it sounds like it went well. :D
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wwebner
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Re: Because I want to go 70 mph on a budget and other changes...

Post by wwebner » Mon May 22, 2017 8:00 am

Verify the accuracy of your Gage reading before you worry too much. Not uncommon to see 10-20% inaccuracies. Wire gauge length etc. all affect reading. Mine reads about the same as what you mentioned,260 @ 70mph on a hot day.sometimes higher. Try drafting a semi. and watch it rise. Try comparing your gauge reading with an infrared.

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Dual Port
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Re: Because I want to go 70 mph on a budget and other changes...

Post by Dual Port » Mon May 22, 2017 8:15 am

You have a bigger displacement engine with dual carbs, more fuel consumed, creating more BTUs than the stock system can disperse. Simple problem, you need a bigger cooler. A T4 cooler creates shrouding fit issues but is less complicated overall.

I did well last week, too. Wheels Through Time motorcycle museum in Maggie Valley, NC, USS Yorktown carrier in Charleston SC, CTS and Farmington. Did very well buying lots of small stuff at both swaps. CTS Saturday was a perfect weather day and a beautiful venue. Except for the lack of drag racing at Farmington it was a perfect week.

:mrgreen:
Last edited by Dual Port on Mon May 22, 2017 10:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
Bruce Amacker
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TRL
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Re: Because I want to go 70 mph on a budget and other changes...

Post by TRL » Mon May 22, 2017 9:41 am

Dual Port wrote:
Mon May 22, 2017 8:15 am
You have a bigger displacement engine with dual carbs, more fuel consumed, creating more BTUs that the stock system can't disperse. Simple problem, you need a bigger cooler. A T4 cooler creates shrouding fit issues but is less complicated overall.
I do have a t4 cooler. I may send an email to the oil manufacturer and see what temps I need to limit things too. I really just want a nice setup that I can rely upon and serve me for years to come.
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Dual Port
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Re: Because I want to go 70 mph on a budget and other changes...

Post by Dual Port » Mon May 22, 2017 10:30 am

I have researched this topic deeply both for my training and VW reasons. It is difficult to get an engine mfr to give oil temp numbers but here's what I've found:

IH (HD Diesel engine) specs 250F max using 15w40 dino oil.
VW states 248F max in this letter dated 1957:
Mobil says 250F max dino and 265 max using Mobil1 oil when talking to their tech line.

The 2180 in my Ghia would creep up to 260F (sump) at 80MPH on a hot day. After the T4 install it would top out at 230ish at the same speed and ambient. T4 has 40% more surface area (7 plates vs 5). Your 1904 will be cruising using considerably more HP pushing a bus than a Ghia, meaning more fuel burned and more BTUs created.

My opinion is that 230ish is a nice safe max temp for extended cruising. 250ish will cause faster oil oxidation and shorter engine life, etc. I use a full synthetic in my strokers and new motors (a wide spread like 0w40 or 10w50), and 20w50 cheap oil from WalMart in my beater motors.

Whatever oil you're using will have a tech line, call them and ask about max temps. I'm curious about what they say. This is another one of those opinion things where if you ask a dozen engine builders you'll get 100 answers. Did you ask Ris? What did he say?

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Bruce Amacker
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Re: Because I want to go 70 mph on a budget and other changes...

Post by TRL » Mon May 22, 2017 7:56 pm

Would worn/weak oil relief springs be too weak and let oil bypass the cooler? Im just trying to rationalize why the temp gets so hot.
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Dual Port
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Re: Because I want to go 70 mph on a budget and other changes...

Post by Dual Port » Mon May 22, 2017 9:07 pm

Unlikely oil is bypassing the cooler, if it was your temp would skyrocket and you'd have never made CTS and back. There's a spec in the book for spring length and tension level if you want to check it, or I have extra stock springs. (You do have stock springs in there, right? I wouldn't use aftermarket there.) IIRC the flywheel spring is oil pressure regulator and the rear spring is cooler bypass. Your cooler is probably functioning to capacity, it's just your engine is probably making slightly more BTU that it can handle with the dual carbs pushing a brick. Where is your sender located? You're belt's not loose, is it? (common oversight) What's RIS say?

Like Bill said, check your gauge accuracy. Fluke makes a temp lead that's super skinny- nothing more than a resistor on the end of a wire and can be fed down the dipstick tube to get another reading using a DVOM. I have one.

Edit: There's two different sizes of stock pulleys that are about 1/2" different, I always use the bigger one. I don't know if this would make a measureable difference but it's worth looking at. I think they're 6.5" and 7" roughly, IIR I'll look at the ones I have on the shelf and let you know.
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Re: Because I want to go 70 mph on a budget and other changes...

Post by TRL » Tue May 23, 2017 9:16 pm

Amsoil got back to me, 270 F is the upper normal range for their oil with normal life expectancy. The oil can be pusher higher but with reduced drain intervals. So Im not going to worry and move on.
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Dual Port
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Re: Because I want to go 70 mph on a budget and other changes...

Post by Dual Port » Wed May 24, 2017 4:05 pm

The two pulley sizes are about 6 5/8" for the smaller one and 7" for the bigger one.
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Re: Because I want to go 70 mph on a budget and other changes...

Post by wwebner » Wed May 24, 2017 7:40 pm

good thought on the pulleys Bruce. Can make a BIG difference in cooling fan speed. the small diameter pulleys used to be called "power pulleys" also known as engine killers.

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