What the heck did I get myself into??? 1971 Weekender!

[SlashKirk]

Making good progress...keep it up.

[verboten1]

I tried to drive it to Belle Isle in Detroit today. I was unsuccessful




I'm pretty sure the rear main seal blew. It's time to pull the engine!

[Mike Kever Kombi]

I think the consensus has been to go with the black one from napa and not the red one from online retailers, as they are known leakers. Bill or Ted can probably elaborate on part # from napa

[wwebner]

There is mention of this somewhere on this forum,but I could not find it. the Fel Pro seal from NAPA is what you want. It will cost more than the ones offered by VW supliers,but won't leak.
Bill

[verboten1]

I found BS 25035 as the FelPro number, i see it at advance for $8.59.

Since I will have the engine out, and I have some leaks at the pushrod tubes, should I just disassemble it and replace the tubes/seals?

anything else one should do when the engine is out?

[wwebner]

Since you have to remove the heads to replace the PR tube seals,just be ready for the "might as well" and rebuild the thing and be done with it

[verboten1]

The understanding I have is that this engine is newer, I'll check compression and stuff before removal, and I'll verify the cylinders, but I don't think I'll need to rebuild it. It was running VERY strong yesterday, with the 091 75 MPH seemed ok, but I backed down because I was uncomfortable at that speed...lol

I had an inkling that the seal was bad, I was getting a bunch of chatter taking off from first gear, but oil loss was not too bad at all.

if I do anything, I want a bigger engine, and I'm not prepared for that cost yet

[Mike Kever Kombi]

anything else one should do when the engine is out?

Check and make sure your valves are seated properly, check the overall condition of the heads. Check to make sure push rods are not bent. Inspect valve train. Look at the top of the pistons for scorching or any other thing that's looks outta whack. Check the clutch, if it was douched with oil it will need to be replaced, if you are replacing clutch, get the flywheel resurfaced, (about $45, the tolerance is .002 in any given inch, if original you are probably past that). Change the gland nut since you are breaking torque. At this point change the throw out bearing since you are there. New plugs and wires. Replace all the bits on the distributor, and take that apart to clean and lube. Adjust lifters. Change fuel line if not up to today's standards. Get yourself a carb rebuild kit and do that also. Make sure your flaps are installed, and your t stat works, replace if it doesn't. Hell since it is out mind as well paint the tins too so they look purdy.

Seems like a lot, but at this stage, just call it. Pull the engine, do all that isht during the winter, and come spring everything will be in A1 shape, you will know that you have done the work the right way, and won't have to worry about engine until you are ready to go bigger.

It's a lot easier to do it over the winter while engine is out, rather than trying to pull engine multiple times, or working in confined spaces.

[verboten1]

I finally got all of the pictures from my wifes corrupt SD card, and got the bus ones hosted.

We drove the Bus up I-75 to take it to ChiliFest.





And even got it up to 70 MPH



We made it to exit 28 before I started smelling oil and fear (I think that was me.....)

I got out to check, and this is what i saw, coming from the front og the engine.



But it looked OK sitting there, I think!




I filled it back up with oil, hung my head and went home

[Busjunky]

Dang, that sucks! Atleast you got to cruise for a little while. Happy to see you're progress on that beast! Ill have to check with Nick and make sure he doesnt want to use it, but i have the repair panel for your lower drivers dogleg. You can have it if he doesn't need it.