Trailmix Beetle

[trailmix]

The spring tune up party sounds like a blast. I would love to look over some shoulders and definitely not afraid of getting dirty. I'll bring the Red Bull.

[toolbox]

You really do not need to rely on specialty vendors for most general parts. I use NAPA, my local import dealer and Euclid for most parts. If you need to order it autohausaz.com has been a good resource when I have needed some things.

[TRL]

Welcome. Do you happen to live on Terminal Ave in CLE?

Yes I do!

Haha. Nice my grandmother lives on your street. PM me and I be happy to stop by and help you out.

[trailmix]

What is a good headliner to purchase for my 66 bug and where from? I have a professional doing the work and I don't necessarily want an inferior product. Not looking to spend a ton, just not rock bottom.
Thanks!!

[wwebner]

PM sent.

[trailmix]

I'm well into the doors now and the new parts are on the way. Excited to make some progress. Even had the wife out in the garage to help with the removal of the door handles and window crank. The front end work and drop spindles will be done tonight....finally....

I have been talking to a few folks and one of them is saying to just go with the 12V conversion, get rid of the points, condenser and upgrade the distributor. Sounds good.....?

I ran the engine numbers and the chart says I have a 1966 Beetle with a 1500 engine. I also have a 28PICT carb that seems not to match the original set up?

CBPerformance sells a 12V conversion but says nothing about fuses having to be replaced. Do I need to replace the fuse box with the upgraded 12V system?

Thank you oh wise ones...

[Mike Kever Kombi]

CBPerformance sells a 12V conversion but says nothing about fuses having to be replaced. Do I need to replace the fuse box with the upgraded 12V system? ...

Amps x Volts = Watts

Or

Watts / Volts = Amps,

So.......

Since you are theoritacally doubling you volts, you should change your fuses ( to an extent)

Technically you should map out each circuit, figure the wattage used, then use the formula to figure out fuse.

Example: 100 watts of light. 12 volts. 100/12=8.33 ampere fuse needed.

Nothing ever works neat and tidy

[Dual Port]

You're close, Mike, your math is correct but the fuse rating will never be exactly what the amp draw is on the circuit. If you had a 100 watt light drawing 8 amps it would probably have a 12-15 amp fuse on the circuit. If your amp load is close to what the fuse rating is, something is wrong with the circuit.

To answer the question, in theory you would change the fuses (not the box) but in reality nobody does. IIRC, VW's fuse ratings did not change much (or at all?) between 6v and 12v cars when the switch was made in '67. Going to 12v cuts the amperage in half for each circuit so there won't be an overload, it's actually easier on the system. Your wire gauge is smaller for 12v than 6v for a given amount of work (watts).

In my opinion, going to a 12v system is a smart choice if you're not an originality freak. I'd stick with points though, as the electronic systems are not totally worry free. I have points in most of my cars and in the one I changed over (2180) I carry a point distributor for when the module croaks.

As for the dist, use a dual advance or vacuum only advance for a stock application. Mechanical advance only distributors (like 009, 010) are a poor choice for street driving. If the carb works and runs good, stick with it, but you'll have to do something about the idle solenoid (if equipped) and choke coil for the higher voltage. I'd swap them out for 12v parts if they're available, but a dropping resistor would also work.

Have fun!

[Mike Kever Kombi]

Yes, that's why I said it's never very neat and tidy. You also have to account for voltage drop in lines, measuring resistance, and then use Ohm's law.

Agreed that you would never use the bare minimum fuse as it would trip constantly. And you would definitely not use a smaller fuse. Since 8 is smaller than 8.33 you would need a fuse bigger than that

I used a multiplier of 1.25 when doing a load rating. Works for me, as long as the AWG is rated for such a load.

Most VW owners only carry the 8 and 16 amp fuses. Hence why most do not change, because the spectrum is so broad. 8.33 would be a 16 amp fuse.

You can buy other amp fuses, practically nobody does.

The thing I am surprised you did not mention Bruce, is the addition of an auxiliary fuse off the battery, which should be a required upgrade.

[Dual Port]

The thing I am surprised you did not mention Bruce, is the addition of an auxiliary fuse off the battery, which should be a required upgrade.

Here's an article I wrote a few years ago for the COVVC rag about installing a main fuse. I've done it on several cars including my bus and Nick's '74 SB.