1974 Double Cab Project

Rob · Post by **Rob** » Sat Sep 12, 2015 11:50 pm

I have been working on the mechanicals a bit. Changed the shift coupler, spark plugs, plug wires, rotor, cap, points, repaired a few wires and replaced the distributor clamp. Went to change the oil and found what had to be another necessity is the mother of invention type repairs. Of the 6 studs on the oil strainer plate 5 were different and not one with a copper washer. I especially liked the bolt with stop nut. The strainer plate looked like someone sat on it. Never seen one in this condition before, at least not one that had come out of a running engine.

wwebner · Post by **wwebner** » Sun Sep 13, 2015 8:41 am

That oil strainer looks like it may have been forced. I don't know the history of your engine,but the late replacement cases from Brazil,have a larger pick up tube and most oil strainers that we get have too small of an inside diam to fit that tube.

Rob · Post by **Rob** » Mon Sep 14, 2015 12:07 am

Trouble is I do not the history of the engine either. Seems to be originall to the truck but I really have no idea. I checked the pick up tube, looks like it is the normal diameter that fits the readily available screens. Somebody just really abused that screen outside the engine I guess.

Rob · Post by **Rob** » Mon Sep 14, 2015 1:00 am

Removed the oil bath air filter today and cleaned the sludge out of it. It was missing the clips that held it to the pedestal so I removed some from another air filter that I had. The flap was also missing and I took that from the donor air filter too. The question I have is which direction the flap goes. It is my guess the that flap installs with weight on the right side which allows the flap to lay down when air is flowing to the filter. I know it is a dumb question but it did not look right for some reason. Can anyone give me their opinion on this?

I have included photos for how I think it should fit in there. I should note that this is the air filter that gets its fresh air from a hose attached to the frame rail.

toolbox · Post by **toolbox** » Mon Sep 14, 2015 6:50 am

That is correct. You want it to block the preheat when you tip in to the throttle.

Rob · Post by **Rob** » Mon Sep 14, 2015 1:43 pm

Thanks for the reply Toolbox, that is what seems logical to me too, just needed confirmation. I am pretty sure that this air filter dose not have any provision for pre heat. The tube under the flap in the photo is the one that attaches to the oil filler neck via a hose. This air filter also has no mounting points for that wire mechanism mounted to the thermostat flap linkage or a side mounted thermostat like the 71' bus' had. Paint looks original and the metal does not appear to be altered. There is no hole in the tin for the "stove pipe" either. Hard to tell even if it ever had a thermostat and flaps, people pitched them all the time, but given it's original destination near the equator VW may have expected it would not need to much in the way of warm up assistance.

toolbox · Post by **toolbox** » Wed Sep 16, 2015 3:57 pm

Can I get a few good installed pictures of the aircleaner once you get it all sorted?

Rob · Post by **Rob** » Fri Sep 18, 2015 8:59 am

Sure thing.

Rob · Post by **Rob** » Mon Sep 21, 2015 8:52 am

Here is the air cleaner reinstalled with it's new/used clips and flap. The breather hose to the oil filler neck was missing and the closest one I could find at the local auto parts store was this radiator hose. The original must has been preformed with a bend in it. It has to make such a sharp turn at the fan shroud hose outlet that it kinks, so still looking for another solution there.

Rob · Post by **Rob** » Mon Sep 21, 2015 9:14 am

I worked on the engine this weekend, replaced the vacuum canister on the distributor, replaced and adjusted the points, replaced the spark plugs and plug wires. Replaced five of the studs for the oil drain plate. Waiting on a new metal fuel line to come in, currently it has a soft fuel line coming through the tin into the compartment. Repaired several wires to the coil, carb and alternator. Also replaced all the missing screws in the engine tin, it only had about half installed. I noticed that the large breastplate had trouble holding itself up level with the lip in the engine bay that the foam seal attaches to. At first I thought maybe the foam seal helps hold it up but that would still put a lot of stress on the tin and there is some stress cracking evident from years of flopping around. I found some additional holes that must have had brackets going to them and they lined up with the corners of the muffler. Searching online I could not find any photos online to confirm the actual existence of the brackets. At any rate I fabricated some simple brackets, used the tailpipe bracket bolt holding slots to attach them too and it seems to work well. My guess is when they made the muffler they did not reinstall the original brackets as the homemade muffler had nowhere to attach them too.