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Re: '65 Standard

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 8:36 pm
by Dual Port
Yea, no matter how good Jim's drills the FW, you still have to open it with a rat tail file to fit. :roll:
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Make sure it seats all of the way with a .0015" feeler gauge.
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Put a little Prussian Blue on the flange to be sure it spreads out from contact.
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Mock it up again.
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Now's a good time to start fitting end play shims.
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The cam was binding only after installing everything, I had to take a few thou from the flanges with 600 grit to get some endplay.
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Clean and check the con rods, then assemble them.
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One more last dry fit and torque to make sure everything is really free.
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Goop it with Curil T sealer.
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And here's where we are- short block done. Hooray!
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Re: '65 Standard

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 8:50 pm
by Dual Port
Spare engine #3:

By all outside indicators, this looks like a really nice virgin low mileage engine. Throttle shaft is tight in the carb, almost all original components, nice end play and no vertical movement in the flywheel. Good compression (135-145) across all 4, runs good with no noises and starts right up. I have high hopes for this as a spare engine. I bought it at a garage sale from a widow whose husband was going to build a kit car but died first. I'm thinking I got lucky on this one.
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Fan hub was broken, no big deal.
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'74 AH case.
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Strip it down to retrim it to a generator setup and make sure the fins are clean. Cut the EGR flange off the intake manifold.
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Run a 3/8" tap into the hole, bottom a 3/8" bolt into it, cut it flush with a whizzer and grind it smooth.
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I don't know how you guys get stuck gen pulleys off but here's how I do it- weld a homemade puller onto the pulley and burp it loose. You can cut the puller from the pulley and re-use it with a bit of grinding, that surface is not used when in operation.
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Here's something bizarre when it was on the run stand- the bellhousing adapter is bolted tight but not grounded! Ted would call this a voltage drop of 12v when it should be under .1v :mrgreen:
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Re: '65 Standard

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 9:01 pm
by Dual Port
Let's go through that old carb.
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The float's a bit heavy according to specs. Don't ask why I have a gram scale. :mrgreen:
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Even a new one is a gram over, but better.
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looks nice now, soda blasted and ready to rock.
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It runs great, let's put some time on it.
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Everything's fine on the run stand for about 5-6 hours when it starts POURING oil from one of the exhaust flanges. I've never seen this before, it was so bad I had to put a drain pan under it. No smoke! Phuck!
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I rerun the compression test to find it's dropped from 140 to 117 in that hole. Looking through the plug holes 3 out of 4 pistons are wet with oil.
:(

$hit happens, that makes 2 full rebuilds plus this top end all waiting in line and no healthy spare engine. I hope my luck is better on the 1600 CW engine I'm building. Jeeeezzzzzz............

Re: '65 Standard

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 9:07 pm
by Six Volt
As always, nice work and great documentation. What did you use to clean the case halves of Core #3?

Re: '65 Standard

Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2018 9:30 am
by Ken
It's better to find a problem on the run stand than out on the road :D

Re: '65 Standard

Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2018 2:03 pm
by Dual Port
Six Volt wrote: Tue Mar 27, 2018 9:07 pm As always, nice work and great documentation. What did you use to clean the case halves of Core #3?
I've tried many products over the years and have not found the magic potion yet. I've tried soaps, acids, Purple stuff, household cleaners, pressure washer, etc.

This one I used regular old kerosene, a wire brush, and a wire wheel in a drill. After several shitty hours cleaning I hosed it with brake clean. It looks better in the pictures than it does in person. :|

Re: '65 Standard

Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2018 10:58 pm
by Dual Port
I left off with the short block assembled on the 1600 CW engine. I had some nice jugs with low mileage on them so I ball-honed them for re-use.
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For those who don't know what a ball or bottle brush hone, this is it, they work great.
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It's hard to get a 30° crosshatch but I try. I use a mixture of oil and K1 in a coffee can for lube, do it outside as it makes a mess.

Once they're honed and look nice, check for wear, taper, and egg-shape, amazingly these check out like brand new- zero" of those.
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Once that's done, bead blast the fins to get rid of rust and dirt.
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Soda blast the Mahle pistons.
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Weigh them, they're all within 1.5 grams.
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Disassemble the heads,
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put new exhaust valves in, lap them,
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check them with Prussian blue dye.
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I bet this tube of dye is older than some LeakOilers. Check for leakage and an intake leaks, so off to the machine shop they go. :|

It wasn't until later I saw the "kiss of death"- a GEX stamp. :shock:
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Re: '65 Standard

Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2018 11:01 pm
by Dual Port
Check the ring gap after squaring the ring in the jug using a piston, they're tight- right at the minimum of .012" :)
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Ready to assemble.
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Bummer! Pulled a stud.
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Re: '65 Standard

Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2018 11:11 pm
by Dual Port
OK, top end is assembled and air checked, all is finally OK there. :?
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Bolt on the T4 oil cooler and modify the shroud. T4s have 40% more surface area.
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It's easier if you use an old shroud to donate a piece, I'll put this ugly pink MF out of it's misery and cut it up.
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Cut the piece, blast the Pepto Bismol off of it.
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Cut the good shroud to clear the cooler.
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Beat it up a little and fit the new piece in.
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Burn it.
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Cut a little triangle.
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Burn it.
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Yea, it's ugly inside too.
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Don't forget to lengthen the Hoover Bit.
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Re: '65 Standard

Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2018 11:16 pm
by Dual Port
Ground out it doesn't look too bad.
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But shiny paint doesn't photograph well.
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Fit the outlet piece, use a donor and extend it.
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.
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Don't forget the foam and weatherstrip.
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