LEAKOIL Forum

It's together and running with a temporary carb, check out the frost on a cool day. But the spark advance is too high- 35° total! That puts my initial at 5ATDC which blows. Target is 30° total at high RPM.

Let's pull it and check it on the Sun machine, yep that's what it is. Pull the dist apart and grind a 4mm nut real skinny to limit the advance weight movement. Epoxy it in place. Stop laughing, Kirk!

Dead nuts on where I want it, 10° total dist advance,(which is 20° crank) all in by a little over 2000rpm. That puts my initial at 10°. It's got about 4-5 hours run time on it now, but it wasn't sounding perfect- random constant misfire at steady RPM. I check a bunch of stuff and come to the conclusion it's the new Bosch plugs, but how can that be? I yank the Bosch and put in a set of USED NGK's and it runs much better! WTF! It's almost ready to go in but it has to go on the back burner. Gotta clean the shop for TUD.

I pulled the tired 1600 out, stuck the 1600CW in and all is well, it has over a hundred miles on it right now. It runs great and cruises at 62 on the highway just fine. The '64 tranny from Ken appears to have a one-year-only 4.12 R&P, I can tell it's taller than the 4.37 I originally had in the '66.

I tried something slightly different, I put the engine on a HF dolly, on my cart, which let me wiggle it around even easier than if it was on the cart alone. See lower pic, that's kind of what it looked like going in.
Pic is for demonstration only, as the engine starts to go in I reach around with my left hand and see if the input shaft is lined up with the PP. If it needs to go up and down I use the lift. If it needs to go left and right I wiggle the dolly. It went in like butter, even easier than before. Next victim, the spare motor that was pumping oil from the exhaust port. I don't plan to split the case on this one as the crank is tight, I'm hoping the rings are stuck or something and it's a top end only fix. We'll see.
Looking forward to the Cruz Saturday. I stopped at Slim and Chubbie's and they'll be ready for us.

Is this the one of your two buses going on the cruise Saturday?

Dual Port wrote: ↑Mon May 21, 2018 7:02 pm It runs great and cruises at 62 on the highway just fine.

Woooh, slow down speed racer, ha, ha.

62 MPH is my sweet spot too.

Karl Kombi wrote: ↑Mon May 21, 2018 7:57 pm Is this the one of your two buses going on the cruise Saturday?

I guess you'll find out Saturday, eh?


I pulled the left head on the spare motor that was pumping oil and I'm baffled. I was expecting to find the rings stuck or broken, but no.
I find exactly what I thought about this engine- low mileage, factory hone marks still very evident, rings free on the piston, put the top ring in the bore 1/2" down and the gap is well within specs. (IIRC .012-.017" new, wear limit .035") Out-of-round under .001"
This is #4 but #3 had more oil than this setting in the bore above the piston. Nothing unusual about the heads, nice low mileage, no cracks, #4 was seeping some oil from the bore but it was #3 that was pouring oil from the exhaust port.
Guides still nice and tight, a bit of (rust?) pitting on the intake seat but that's not the problem. Valves in normal low mileage condition. End castings have some dry carbon in them but not oily. My notes- 2 years ago compression was 140 in #3 and dropped to 117 after pumping oil, #4 was 145 and dropped to 135 this year. Oil breather in the gen stand is as clear as a bell, I can breath through it. No crankcase pressure. I see absolutely no reason the rings weren't seating in this engine, they are almost like new. I'm baffled. This thing was pumping oil out of #3 exhaust port like I've never seen before in my life. It was puddling on the floor and needed a drain pan put under it while it was running. Why do these rings look picture perfect and pump oil like no tomorrow? It showed full on the stick and I drained 2 1/2 quarts from it, so it wasn't overfilled.




UPDATE: The ring gap was .016", which qualifies as a new ring.

Wild ass guess: since all parts are in good condition, there's some kind of phenomenon happening . The large pressure above the top ring keeps it seated/sealing properly. Blowby gas accumulates between the rings because the lower ring has too small of a gap; this negates the pressure differential, making the top ring flutter. When the oil is scraped up on the exhaust stroke, it gets vacuumed in the chamber.

Just a thought,because I have seen this before. Customer did a top end and DID NOT remove the pistons from the cylinders and the rings from the pistons and clean thouroughly. The rings never seated. puddles of oil on the piston tops.
Pistons should be installed in the cylinders DRY including the rings with just a light wipe of oil on the piston skirts.

I've heard of issues with chrome rings not seating properly and these are chrome. I use cast rings as they are more forgiving about bores not being perfect and I've never had a problem. It will go together with cast rings.

I never posted an update on the 1600 with the ring seal problem above- Several months ago it went together with fresh valve job, cast rings and a ball hone job on the jugs. After several hours on the run stand all was good so it went on the shelf for a spare.
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Tranny input seal was leaking so now is the time to take care of it before KI. Out she comes. Polish the shaft with my gizmo and some emery cloth. After brakecleaning the bell it doesn't even look like the same trans. Gear oil had gotten on the flywheel and clutch cover but amazingly did not get on the disc. The seal appears to be OE, when I stretch it the heat cracks appear. The lip was also badly worn, but whattyawant for 50+ years. 40 miles later, dry as a bone.