Austin's 1977 Tintop Camper

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TRL
Posts: 612
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Re: Austin's 1977 Tintop Camper

Post by TRL »

Happy to help! And if any holes are stripped out look into some helicoils, or timeserts. Helicoils are easier and cheaper and should do the trick. Just get the right kit for the thread size and depth. You can usually get these at local parts stores. Or just amazon it. Happy to hear "the juice" is working for you. Keep us updated!
The Rick Lang
Kooper271
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Re: Austin's 1977 Tintop Camper

Post by Kooper271 »

Chuck and Rick,

Thanks for the advice. I'll keep that tip about leaving the alternator and fan shroud in mind for next time.

Got my engine stripped down to the long block today. I was removing what I think was the TSII and instead of the bolt backing out the head sheared off. Had that happen to one tin screw as well. No good especially on the TSII. :cry:

It gets worse. The stud i used to mount my engine is kinda FUBARed. I don't know what happened to it but I'm sure me or my helper screwed it up somehow on disassembly. The threads are gone. Anything to do besides split the case?

Heads come off tomorrow and I'll take them up to Delzani's sometime this week to have them checked out/rebuilt. Also going to order a new thermostat from awesome powdercoating.
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Kooper271
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Re: Austin's 1977 Tintop Camper

Post by Kooper271 »

Todays progress.

Also pulled the liners off.
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wwebner
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Re: Austin's 1977 Tintop Camper

Post by wwebner »

Looks like you have an AC pulley on the end of the crank. I have the correct spacer to replace that if you need when the time comes. Also,you will have to get the fan hub off. It is a tapered press fit. You can use 3 pieces of 3/16 flat stock fitted behind the hub and slowly crank in 3,8mm bolts against the flat stock and the hub will pop off. Alternated turning the bolts a little at a time. Stand to the side while doing this.
Kooper271
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Re: Austin's 1977 Tintop Camper

Post by Kooper271 »

wwebner wrote:Looks like you have an AC pulley on the end of the crank. I have the correct spacer to replace that if you need when the time comes. Also,you will have to get the fan hub off. It is a tapered press fit. You can use 3 pieces of 3/16 flat stock fitted behind the hub and slowly crank in 3,8mm bolts against the flat stock and the hub will pop off. Alternated turning the bolts a little at a time. Stand to the side while doing this.

You are a wealth of knowledge. Thank you. How do you feel about mahle p&cs vs aapistons? I know you're a dealer for aapistons.
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wwebner
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Re: Austin's 1977 Tintop Camper

Post by wwebner »

Although I am a dealer for AA, I have no first hand experience with their P&C's. piston and cylinder are rarely a weak point. The advantage AA and some other piston manufacture and suppliers have is offering different configurations, such as flat top and larger diameter. I would stay away from any that seem TOO cheap.
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Dual Port
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Re: Austin's 1977 Tintop Camper

Post by Dual Port »

I have Mahles in my 1600SP Ghia motor, and AA 92 thick walls in my 2180, both are quality units with no troubles. I think the Samba gang likes both also.
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
Kooper271
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Re: Austin's 1977 Tintop Camper

Post by Kooper271 »

I've read flat top pistons add compression, and that makes sense. Is there anything else I need to worry about, going from dished to flat top?
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wwebner
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Re: Austin's 1977 Tintop Camper

Post by wwebner »

Kooper271 wrote:I've read flat top pistons add compression, and that makes sense. Is there anything else I need to worry about, going from dished to flat top?
You can roughly estimate your comp ratio before you decide. If you have delzani do your heads,you can cc them (chamber volume),then shoot for .035 deck ht. the stock piston has a 15cc dish which you need to add to the formula. If you go with the AMC heads,they have the step (which replaces the spacer that VW recomended eliminating),in which case,you would probably want to go with the flat top (no dish) pistons,or, AA will machine out the step for about $40 per head.
The goal is to keep your comp ratio under 8:1. 7.6:1 seems be be ideal. for these motors in a bus. Stock head chamber volume on the 2L is about 54-55 cc the stepped AMC is more like 60cc.or a little more.
Just a note: it is easier to add a little deck ht (various spacers at the base of the cylinder) to reduce comp ratio than it is to increase comp ratio after you have you P&C's and heads. Also,larger diam P&C's ,like 96mm will also increase comp ratio with the same head volume and deck ht.
Kooper271
Posts: 197
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Re: Austin's 1977 Tintop Camper

Post by Kooper271 »

wwebner wrote:
Kooper271 wrote:I've read flat top pistons add compression, and that makes sense. Is there anything else I need to worry about, going from dished to flat top?
You can roughly estimate your comp ratio before you decide. If you have delzani do your heads,you can cc them (chamber volume),then shoot for .035 deck ht. the stock piston has a 15cc dish which you need to add to the formula. If you go with the AMC heads,they have the step (which replaces the spacer that VW recomended eliminating),in which case,you would probably want to go with the flat top (no dish) pistons,or, AA will machine out the step for about $40 per head.
The goal is to keep your comp ratio under 8:1. 7.6:1 seems be be ideal. for these motors in a bus. Stock head chamber volume on the 2L is about 54-55 cc the stepped AMC is more like 60cc.or a little more.
Just a note: it is easier to add a little deck ht (various spacers at the base of the cylinder) to reduce comp ratio than it is to increase comp ratio after you have you P&C's and heads. Also,larger diam P&C's ,like 96mm will also increase comp ratio with the same head volume and deck ht.

So .035" isn't to small of a deck height?
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