LEAKOIL Forum

I would be honored to carry on this torch.

I broke 2 pilot bearings trying to install them (I blame one on LA Products crappy, crappy parts).

In Raby's video, he said the two washers for the oil inspection plate were pretty hard to lose because they come in their own special bag. Challenge accepted! I lost them before I ever saw them (later found them, someone broke into my garage and took them out of the bag then his them, I swear).

It took me two full 8 hour days to remove a single lug nut.

Worst weekend of my life. I swear that thing was welded to the stud. Sprayed it with PB Blaster for the week leading up to it, and a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF after that wasn't working. Treated it like exhaust nuts - don't touch them unless they're glowing red. No go. My electric impact gun didn't do anything so I bought a pneumatic one. Nope. Broke several breaker bars, extensions, and sockets. Rounded out the lug nut, then broke a rounded nut extractor off. Tried using a nut splitter, but it broke before the lug nut did. Then I said f it and cut through it and the stud with a cut off wheel.

I call that determination.... Way to go.

I messed up. I overlooked measuring my cam gear backlash.

Chuck, Bill, or anyone else can you chime in here? Do I need to tear the engine down, or do you think the stock crank gear & the new cam gear from European Motorworks will be sufficient?

Well,you should be OK. Replacement cam gears are "0". Did you rotate the crank and cam assembly while they were in the case half? If you did,and the cam did not " walk" out of the bearings, your good.

Austin contacted me yesterday and I told him if it spins OK then it's fine, cause there isn't much you can do about it anyway, VW type 4 cam gears were made with 7 different backlash variances (-3 thru +3, I think), best to use the original gear that came matched to the case if possible, but who knows what was original anymore, and you replaced your crank gear anyhow...

Thanks for the rocker arm mounting block, Chuck.
Shroud is on, valves are adjusted, etc. Need to pull the flywheel to install the felt seal over the needle bearing (if anyone needs one, I have a lot of extras).
I want an oil pressure gauge. A tee screwed directly into the case could snap off, so I bought and put together an oil pressure sensor relocation system from 42 Draft Designs. The stock sensor is there to keep the light off, and I bought the VDO sender for my gauge from Dakota Digital.
The line that came with the kit from 42 Draft Designs was too short, so I went to Summit and got a 24" long black braided brake line.

I had to mess with the 1/2 tin all evening - it doesn't seem to want to line up at all

Kooper271 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:10 am 20170425_102130.jpg
The line that came with the kit from 42 Draft Designs was too short, so I went to Summit and got a 24" long black braided brake line.

You might have an issue installing that M dash 3 to M dash 3 union into your oil pressure sending port. You need a male 10x1.0 to male dash 3. in the future if you call 42 Draft and order this kit just ask for a longer line and they can supply it.

Good to know about calling 42 draft in the future, thank you. I did get m10-1.0 adapters for the hose and everything threads together nicely