LEAKOIL Forum

If I could have found a NOS plastic ball I would have bought it. The metal ball will be noisier and wear the shift selector more, but the plastic reproductions crack easily and wear quickly.

Tried to start it today but the fuel pump wasn't running. Went through the troubleshooting procedure and determined the fuel pump was bad. Replaced it with my spare and now I have fuel and a sputter every few rotations but no start. Thinking it has something to do with either my timing or the pertronix I installed.

If I have time later I'm going to pull out the pertronix and reinstall a new set of points and a condenser. Pretty sure the way I set my timing should be good enough - the rotor is pointed to the #1 plug wire and the groove on the distributor while at 0° on the timing scale

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeNN-LzJh2I
I think he forgot to mention the ignition needs to be on.
You can to this at TDC or at your 7.5 degree mark .

you're trying to start it on a test stand correct?

Yeah

My pertronix wasnt installed right (the spacer was too thick) so i put a new set of points and the old condenser back in. Points are gapped correctly and i can see an arc between them when rotating the engine but I'm not getting any spark to the plug wires

So, have you figured it out yet?

I bought a new condenser, just need to install it. I think that will fix the spark issue. Hopefully will have time for that tonight

Do the static timing. can't trust eyeballing rotor and notch on dist.

Yeah I static timed it using a test light. The problem wasn't getting spark at the wrong time, the engine wasnt getting a spark at all

Well, I have quite an update.

The last couple of months have been crazy busy. Thanks for all of the help everyone. I've been working hard on getting ready for Kelly's Island this year.

Chuck came out in mid-July to help me figure out what I was messing up. I'm certainly glad I called for help!

He gave me a list of things to do:
Clean the bus
Clean, treat the battery tray
Strip engine down to longblock, make adjustments to tin and exhaust, fit some parts that were missing (I didn't even know they existed).
Recheck endplay
Remove some.... unattractive modifications (blockoffs for the egr I found a way to make online)
Fit new taillights

I accomplished all of that and reinstalled the engine. I installed new driveshafts, and new rear brake backing plates. Also installed new rubber brake lines.

Starter wouldn't turn over from the key, and I traced it to a faulty ignition switch. Replaced it and it cranked!

Took about a week to get the engine running. Ended up needing a new S-boot and molded hoses, due to vacuum leaks I found using a smoke machine. Purchased new silicone molded and cloth wrapped hoses from geebee, they are fantastic quality. He also sent me some free stuff and tools.

Had some FI troubleshooting to do, and now the engine runs well. Got the cam broken it. That was STRESSFUL! Alternator light and oil pressure light are now fully functional.


I took the bus out for a test drive tonight. Found a few issues....

Brakes in the rear were dragging. When I got home the parking brake was way out of adjustment. Rear brakes probably just need a clean and adjust.

Transmission wouldn't shift into third or fourth. New shift rod bushings, new clutch, etc. Probably just need to readjust the shifter.

and the big one:

Occasional grinding when going into second gear. I can't get into second gear at all and it grinds probably 30-50% of shifts into second. My pedal freeplay is okay, I think. It is about 1". I'll remeasure it tomorrow and add washers to the cable if necessary tomorrow. Hopefully it is't a syncro