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Re: Stuff at the Shop

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 7:30 pm
by Dual Port
I took a look at the clutch, and it's a good thing I did. It had the wrong disc in it, which had the wrong offset and rubbing hard on the gland nut. This would have caused dragging (failure to release properly) and difficult shifting. In research I think it's a Rabbit disc. The throwout bearing sounded rough and dry so it got a new dampened clutch disc and throwout bearing. The pressure plate is a nice German one so I reused that.
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Re: Stuff at the Shop

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 7:39 pm
by Dual Port
The speedo needed a service so I might as well take care of that.
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I disassembled it, changed all of the colored gels for the warning lights, and cleaned things up.
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See how "burned" the gels are?
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This is how it looks now,
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And this is how it looks with the lights on.
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I know you can run a 6v fuel gauge on 12v but I like to install a resistor. I know from prior experience it's a 162 ohm resistor because I bought a pack of 10 a few years ago. :D Here's a nice way to install it with a male and female spade so it goes in series on the power lead on the back of the gauge. When I tested this on my bus the voltage at the gauge was exactly 6v. This makes the gauge more accurate as it loses some of its accuracy running on 12v.
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Re: Stuff at the Shop

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 7:48 pm
by Dual Port
Let's clean up some wiring by the fusebox. I got rid of this splice and soldered in a new power split so the ignition switch won't suffer voltage drop.
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Here's the soldered joint,
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With two layers of marine heat shrink tubing over it.
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Let's pretty up the ignition switch terminals which are corroded,
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Make them look new,
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And pretty up the wiring on the switch itself.
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The fusebox was also grungy,
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Clean these with a brass wire wheel in a Dremel.
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And polish the fuses, too. VW's are notorious for problems in this area.
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Re: Stuff at the Shop

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 8:09 pm
by Dual Port
Let's pretty up things back by the starter. All new terminals here but the main power feed is hidden by the battery cable. It has 2-10 gauge feeds soldered and shrink tubed into a copper eyelet, better than OE.
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The voltage regulator bolts here but I won't bolt one onto paint so let's buff the metal clean.
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Here's the wiring prettied up on the regulator. Lots of splices here as the wiring was toast from heat and age, and every splice is soldered and shrink tubed. I installed a 40amp MaxiFuse to protect the 10ga hot feed going to the dash. If the ignition switch comes loose, or the headlight switch comes loose and shorts on sheetmetal, or the fusebox comes loose, this will stop the bus from burning. That's a rubber covered reusable ty-wrap holding the fuse.
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I installed a newer reman German 12v generator, cleaned the commutator, installed new brushes and polarized it. I installed a good German 12v choke coil and ran it on the bench to make sure everything is good.
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Here's the new coil feed and oil sender wire, I used correct color and gauge, soldered, shrink tubed, and loomed. Most guys would think this was OEG. I put heat shrink on the terminal end in case something touches it, as it's hot and unfused.
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Here's the wiring done by the generator, looking like OE.
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The upper engine bolts gave me a fight because they turned trying to loosen the nuts, getting a vicegrip on the starter bolt is not fun. I welded some spikes to them so they won't turn anymore. :mrgreen:
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It's done and everything is good except the weather. I wonder how long before the roads dry up? :(

Re: Stuff at the Shop

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 8:39 pm
by Six Volt
Nice work! Love the spike idea! Great tutorial as always!

Re: Stuff at the Shop

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 8:58 pm
by Karl Kombi
Thanks for the updates -- from the lack of postings lately, I was starting LEAKOIL withdrawal. You've provided professional work as usual! :D

Re: Stuff at the Shop

Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 6:45 am
by toolbox
Dual Port wrote: Wed Nov 28, 2018 8:09 pm

Here's the wiring done by the generator, looking like OE.PB240087.JPG

Bruce, on later vehicles there was a ground installed from the small screw on the generator to the foot of the voltage regulator.

Re: Stuff at the Shop

Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 9:23 am
by Dual Port
toolbox wrote: Thu Nov 29, 2018 6:45 am
Dual Port wrote: Wed Nov 28, 2018 8:09 pm
Bruce, on later vehicles there was a ground installed from the small screw on the generator to the foot of the voltage regulator.
I know, but I don't think that includes split busses. None of the harnesses I've installed included it and it's not in the schematic or instruction book. Maybe later Bugs? Ken's bus has TWO ground straps on the tranny instead of one and they were recently cleaned, I doubt he has a v drop on the ground. I did clean the bellhousing flange with a die grinder to make sure the engine is well grounded to the trans and the charging voltage was spot on when done so I'm pretty confident it's OK.

Any comment on single vs 4 piston calipers? You've probably tested more than you can count.

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Re: Stuff at the Shop

Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2018 9:51 am
by Ken
Nice work as always. These upgrades will certainly improve the reliability of the bus and the documentation will be helpful in the future. :D . Hopefully I will be picking it up in the next few days when the salt is off the roads.
Thanks, Bruce

Re: Stuff at the Shop

Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 9:47 am
by Ken
So far I've put about 30 miles on the bus and it's like driving a new bus. It starts up instantly as soon as I turn the key. All of the lights and horn work perfectly. Overall it is much safer to
drive.
I'll be the first to admit that it was a tough decision because I am a bit of a "Stock Nazi" when it comes to this bus because it is 99.9% original and I have all of the documentation tracing it back to the original owner who bought it new from Lossman Motors where Art Brow remembers working on it. Also, 12 volts was offered as an option in late 1966 and became standard in 1967. All in all, it was the right decision. Maybe the 1964 Vegas Bus will be next? ;) :D