Re: Bill's T4 engine build
Posted: Mon Dec 30, 2019 12:02 pm
In my last post, I was a little vague on setting end play, and I had no pics of my build. So, I thought I would mock it up and provide a little more info. First, shims are sold in metric increments. So here's a little chart.
0.24mm= .0095in
0.30mm= .0118in
0.32mm= .0126in
0.34mm= .0134in
0.36mm= .0142in
0.38mm= .0150in
I doubt that any of us have a metric dial indicator or micrometer.
as mention prior, I pick 2 shims and measure them.
We'll call this one .013 (actually .0134) This one .014 (actually .0142) So, we have a 2 shim set of .027in
Install them on the crank. Before we install the flywheel, clean up the mating surfaces and remove the o ring if it is still there. ( don't forget to install the new o ring from the gasket set before final installation of the flywheel) clean well, both mating surfaces. A good time to clean up and polish the nose that sits in the oil seal. Some fine steel wool works. I like to polish this area. check for any grooves. Just make sure it's nice and smooth to avoid oil leaks. Install the flywheel and attempt to torque it. this can be difficult to get to 80 ft.lbs without a flywheel lock, A large flat blade screw driver in the flywheel teeth will work. Get the bolts as tight as you can. Even is more important than getting to actual torque spec. Getting a dial indicator mounted is also tricky when working with just the case half. So. we are going to use a feeler gauge here.
Here we have a nice tight .020in. Now for some math.
we want to get to .004in (+- .001) to be at spec.
We have .027in in shims. .020in gap. deduct the .004 from the .020in. that we want for our desired end play = .016 shim needed for the 3rd shim. there is no .016 shim, so we use .015 and should end up with .005in for our end play.
You can work various combinations for this. But, in searching various suppliers, they cost between $8-$10 each.so use what you have and determine the shim you need before dropping $'s on a bunch of sizes.
0.24mm= .0095in
0.30mm= .0118in
0.32mm= .0126in
0.34mm= .0134in
0.36mm= .0142in
0.38mm= .0150in
I doubt that any of us have a metric dial indicator or micrometer.
as mention prior, I pick 2 shims and measure them.
We'll call this one .013 (actually .0134) This one .014 (actually .0142) So, we have a 2 shim set of .027in
Install them on the crank. Before we install the flywheel, clean up the mating surfaces and remove the o ring if it is still there. ( don't forget to install the new o ring from the gasket set before final installation of the flywheel) clean well, both mating surfaces. A good time to clean up and polish the nose that sits in the oil seal. Some fine steel wool works. I like to polish this area. check for any grooves. Just make sure it's nice and smooth to avoid oil leaks. Install the flywheel and attempt to torque it. this can be difficult to get to 80 ft.lbs without a flywheel lock, A large flat blade screw driver in the flywheel teeth will work. Get the bolts as tight as you can. Even is more important than getting to actual torque spec. Getting a dial indicator mounted is also tricky when working with just the case half. So. we are going to use a feeler gauge here.
Here we have a nice tight .020in. Now for some math.
we want to get to .004in (+- .001) to be at spec.
We have .027in in shims. .020in gap. deduct the .004 from the .020in. that we want for our desired end play = .016 shim needed for the 3rd shim. there is no .016 shim, so we use .015 and should end up with .005in for our end play.
You can work various combinations for this. But, in searching various suppliers, they cost between $8-$10 each.so use what you have and determine the shim you need before dropping $'s on a bunch of sizes.