'65 Standard
Re: '65 Standard
Yea, no matter how good Jim's drills the FW, you still have to open it with a rat tail file to fit.
Make sure it seats all of the way with a .0015" feeler gauge.
Put a little Prussian Blue on the flange to be sure it spreads out from contact.
Mock it up again.
Now's a good time to start fitting end play shims.
The cam was binding only after installing everything, I had to take a few thou from the flanges with 600 grit to get some endplay.
Clean and check the con rods, then assemble them.
One more last dry fit and torque to make sure everything is really free.
Goop it with Curil T sealer.
And here's where we are- short block done. Hooray!
Last edited by Dual Port on Tue Mar 27, 2018 9:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
Re: '65 Standard
Spare engine #3:
By all outside indicators, this looks like a really nice virgin low mileage engine. Throttle shaft is tight in the carb, almost all original components, nice end play and no vertical movement in the flywheel. Good compression (135-145) across all 4, runs good with no noises and starts right up. I have high hopes for this as a spare engine. I bought it at a garage sale from a widow whose husband was going to build a kit car but died first. I'm thinking I got lucky on this one. Fan hub was broken, no big deal. '74 AH case. Strip it down to retrim it to a generator setup and make sure the fins are clean. Cut the EGR flange off the intake manifold. Run a 3/8" tap into the hole, bottom a 3/8" bolt into it, cut it flush with a whizzer and grind it smooth. I don't know how you guys get stuck gen pulleys off but here's how I do it- weld a homemade puller onto the pulley and burp it loose. You can cut the puller from the pulley and re-use it with a bit of grinding, that surface is not used when in operation. Here's something bizarre when it was on the run stand- the bellhousing adapter is bolted tight but not grounded! Ted would call this a voltage drop of 12v when it should be under .1v
By all outside indicators, this looks like a really nice virgin low mileage engine. Throttle shaft is tight in the carb, almost all original components, nice end play and no vertical movement in the flywheel. Good compression (135-145) across all 4, runs good with no noises and starts right up. I have high hopes for this as a spare engine. I bought it at a garage sale from a widow whose husband was going to build a kit car but died first. I'm thinking I got lucky on this one. Fan hub was broken, no big deal. '74 AH case. Strip it down to retrim it to a generator setup and make sure the fins are clean. Cut the EGR flange off the intake manifold. Run a 3/8" tap into the hole, bottom a 3/8" bolt into it, cut it flush with a whizzer and grind it smooth. I don't know how you guys get stuck gen pulleys off but here's how I do it- weld a homemade puller onto the pulley and burp it loose. You can cut the puller from the pulley and re-use it with a bit of grinding, that surface is not used when in operation. Here's something bizarre when it was on the run stand- the bellhousing adapter is bolted tight but not grounded! Ted would call this a voltage drop of 12v when it should be under .1v
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
Re: '65 Standard
Let's go through that old carb.
$hit happens, that makes 2 full rebuilds plus this top end all waiting in line and no healthy spare engine. I hope my luck is better on the 1600 CW engine I'm building. Jeeeezzzzzz............
The float's a bit heavy according to specs. Don't ask why I have a gram scale. Even a new one is a gram over, but better. looks nice now, soda blasted and ready to rock.
It runs great, let's put some time on it.
Everything's fine on the run stand for about 5-6 hours when it starts POURING oil from one of the exhaust flanges. I've never seen this before, it was so bad I had to put a drain pan under it. No smoke! Phuck!
I rerun the compression test to find it's dropped from 140 to 117 in that hole. Looking through the plug holes 3 out of 4 pistons are wet with oil.$hit happens, that makes 2 full rebuilds plus this top end all waiting in line and no healthy spare engine. I hope my luck is better on the 1600 CW engine I'm building. Jeeeezzzzzz............
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
Re: '65 Standard
As always, nice work and great documentation. What did you use to clean the case halves of Core #3?
Re: '65 Standard
It's better to find a problem on the run stand than out on the road
1963 Single Cab
1964 Bowman & Sons Camper (Vegas Bus)
1966 Westy S0-42 Hardtop
1967 Westy SO-42 Pop Top
1968 Single Cab
1964 Bowman & Sons Camper (Vegas Bus)
1966 Westy S0-42 Hardtop
1967 Westy SO-42 Pop Top
1968 Single Cab
Re: '65 Standard
I've tried many products over the years and have not found the magic potion yet. I've tried soaps, acids, Purple stuff, household cleaners, pressure washer, etc.
This one I used regular old kerosene, a wire brush, and a wire wheel in a drill. After several shitty hours cleaning I hosed it with brake clean. It looks better in the pictures than it does in person.
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
Re: '65 Standard
I left off with the short block assembled on the 1600 CW engine. I had some nice jugs with low mileage on them so I ball-honed them for re-use.
Once they're honed and look nice, check for wear, taper, and egg-shape, amazingly these check out like brand new- zero" of those. Once that's done, bead blast the fins to get rid of rust and dirt. Soda blast the Mahle pistons. Weigh them, they're all within 1.5 grams. Disassemble the heads, put new exhaust valves in, lap them, check them with Prussian blue dye. I bet this tube of dye is older than some LeakOilers. Check for leakage and an intake leaks, so off to the machine shop they go.
It wasn't until later I saw the "kiss of death"- a GEX stamp.
For those who don't know what a ball or bottle brush hone, this is it, they work great. It's hard to get a 30° crosshatch but I try. I use a mixture of oil and K1 in a coffee can for lube, do it outside as it makes a mess.Once they're honed and look nice, check for wear, taper, and egg-shape, amazingly these check out like brand new- zero" of those. Once that's done, bead blast the fins to get rid of rust and dirt. Soda blast the Mahle pistons. Weigh them, they're all within 1.5 grams. Disassemble the heads, put new exhaust valves in, lap them, check them with Prussian blue dye. I bet this tube of dye is older than some LeakOilers. Check for leakage and an intake leaks, so off to the machine shop they go.
It wasn't until later I saw the "kiss of death"- a GEX stamp.
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
Re: '65 Standard
Check the ring gap after squaring the ring in the jug using a piston, they're tight- right at the minimum of .012"
Bummer! Pulled a stud.
Ready to assemble.Bummer! Pulled a stud.
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
Re: '65 Standard
OK, top end is assembled and air checked, all is finally OK there.
Bolt on the T4 oil cooler and modify the shroud. T4s have 40% more surface area. It's easier if you use an old shroud to donate a piece, I'll put this ugly pink MF out of it's misery and cut it up.
Cut the piece, blast the Pepto Bismol off of it.
Cut the good shroud to clear the cooler.
Beat it up a little and fit the new piece in.
Burn it. Cut a little triangle.
Burn it.
Yea, it's ugly inside too.
Don't forget to lengthen the Hoover Bit.Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
Re: '65 Standard
Ground out it doesn't look too bad.
.
Don't forget the foam and weatherstrip.
But shiny paint doesn't photograph well.
Fit the outlet piece, use a donor and extend it..
Don't forget the foam and weatherstrip.
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus