LEAKOIL Forum

Ouch Damn interference motors.

wwebner wrote:Ouch Damn interference motors.

No kidding. Unfortunately i won't be making it to the third thursday meeting tomorrow as I am carless.

Got everything back from the machine shops today. Crank, rods, and case bores all measured within spec.

I need to order the p&cs, bearings, cam, etc from you, Bill. Still need to inspect the oil pump, then have the flywheel machined and the crank assembly balanced.

Unless your flywheel has gouges in it, I usually don't have them machined. Just clean them and scuff them up with a rotary pad. The only time they really need to be machined is if the clutch disc wore down so far that the rivets put deep gouges in it. If your machine shop is honest,they can inspect it closely and advise you if it really needs re surfaced.

Sorry to hear about the Jetta... what kind of motor is it? Well if your engine parts have to sit around make sure there oiled up and wrapped up well for storage.

TRL wrote:Sorry to hear about the Jetta... what kind of motor is it? Well if your engine parts have to sit around make sure there oiled up and wrapped up well for storage.

Its a 2.0L

Minor update:

Everything is back from the machine shop. I think I have everything sorted that I need except for the heads - my 02 Jetta bending valves again at 85k miles set me back financially big time.

I inspected the oil pump and it looked great so it is soaking in a 50/50 mix of mineral oil and lacquer thinner.

Not working on the floor like some heathen anymore, either.




Here are some pics of the new or reconditioned stuff.


















In summary:

Stock cam from European motorworks
Cam gear from European motorworks
lifters from European motorworks
Silverline bearings
AA Pistons and cylinders
Cleaned up rods
polished crank
gallery plugs pulled and tapped
Case needed an ear welded, some idiot (me) broke it
Case was washed before align bore was checked


Questions for you all:

What sealant or material should I put on the oil gallery plugs?
What material should I put on the cam gear bolts?
I need to replace an engine mounting stud, what material should I put on it?

Oil plugs should get some sort of hydraulic grade teflon pipe sealant. Cam gear should be high temp high strength loctite. A lesser grade loctite like blue can be used on the stud but you don't exactly need anything.

TRL wrote:Oil plugs should get some sort of hydraulic grade teflon pipe sealant. Cam gear should be high temp high strength loctite. A lesser grade loctite like blue can be used on the stud but you don't exactly need anything.

Awesome, thank you.

Gables only wants ~$300 to do a valve job for my Jetta AND dynamically balance my engine. Finally caught a break...

For future reference:

McMaster Carr P/N 1185N88 replaces VW 021-115-133 (NLA) but still can be found in gasket sets.

Made of a higher quality material with better oil, abrasion, and temp resistance.

This is the o-ring found inside the body of the Type 4 oil pump.


I used McMaster Carr P/N 93325A425 to replace the broken engine mounting stud I had. It is 3mm longer than the stock stud and is all thread but I believe it will work.

I've been pretty sick the last couple of months and unfortunately haven't had time to make it to any events or work on the bus much.

Last Thursday I felt better than I have in a while and my engine internals were finally done being balanced so I picked those up. Unfortunately according to the machine shop, the heads are toast. I guesss I'm in the market for a new set of AMC heads.

The threads on my oil pump studs were really messed up, luckily a thread file and die were able to save them.

Maybe I'll start assembling the shortblock as soon as I'm healthy. I may just wait til I can afford the heads, though.