LEAKOIL Forum

bus was grinding going into reverse, thought i would adjust cable free play. found wingnut had none, po turned it in too much. got off at noon, thought i would replace it ,have a spare. new cable end is longer and bigger, clevis pin unusable, got a replacement at the hardware store, after drilling,grinding,cutting it works. why dont those damn cables go in as easy as they come out!!!! 4 hours later all done.

Pull the bowden tube off the trans next time and it will be easier to get the cable through. Check the hole in the arm of the clutch pedal, bet it is oblong. Fix it before it breaks...Best is to weld old and redrill hole.

toolbox wrote:Pull the bowden tube off the trans next time and it will be easier to get the cable through. Check the hole in the arm of the clutch pedal, bet it is oblong. Fix it before it breaks...Best is to weld old and redrill hole.

Usually not a bad idea to replace the bowden tube at the same time. Also the little boot that seals the cable exit end of the bowden tube.

that boot is long gone, the rest goes on my growing winter project list

wwebner wrote:

toolbox wrote:Pull the bowden tube off the trans next time and it will be easier to get the cable through. Check the hole in the arm of the clutch pedal, bet it is oblong. Fix it before it breaks...Best is to weld old and redrill hole.

Usually not a bad idea to replace the bowden tube at the same time. Also the little boot that seals the cable exit end of the bowden tube.

And the one on the front where the cable enters the tube...

after installing and adjusting free play the wingnut bottomed out i took it out and measuredit, 3120mm. my year calls for 3115mm. also i have a chatter when driving which i think may be the throw out bearing so i plan on pulling the motor this spring to have a look.

Do you have the proper amount of bend in your Bowden tube?

In addition to eliminating(?) chatter, proper bend will take out some or all of the extra length in your cable.