1957 Oval
Re: 1957 Oval
I talked to Steve at SoCal again today, and they're swapping out some 356 hoses with banjos that he says will take care of the problem. They may also send a call tag for the other hoses so we don't have to pay the freight back. They should go out Monday which means we'll see them the following Monday.......
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
Re: 1957 Oval
Parts arrived, my schedule opened up, and got more done. Let's start by putting some paint on the area where the MC reservoir will go. I just couldn't bring myself to put this together leaving no paint in this area.
6V had a dried up gallon of Polar Silver that was used to paint this car, the paint was like a rock in the bottom because someone didn't put the lid on tight many years ago. I put an inch of reducer in there, let it sit a week and it came back to life! Let's start with some primer.
Mix that dried up shit real good, but what solvents do you use? It's a BC/CC setup, let's take a chance and use regular urethane reducer, hardener, and CC. Two coats of Polar Silver with urethane hardener:
Followed by two coats of clear coat:
And the dual reservoir. I'll let 6V do the final wet sand and buff.
Being that this is behind the spare tire, nobody will ever see it, so I'll shoot pics for you.
OK, the rear hardware finally arrived. Before finishing this off, lets get some lube into those brand new dry wheel bearings. They won't last two miles with no lube so I shot some Tef-Gel into them. It comes out as a liquid and sets up like Vaseline as a thin grease, great stuff. I learned the hard way many years ago when one of my guys at the shop put a HD truck together without lubing the wheel bearings. The oil from the diff doesn't get there immediately, and the bearings didn't make the road test. Never again....
I lubed the seal surface too and put the drum spacers on.
The rear shoes gave me an assache because the ends of the shoe and the adjusters weren't compatible.
Most of us have run across this before, but if the shoes are cut square (like the right one) you use an adjuster with a straight slot. If the shoes are cut at an angle (left) use use an angled slot. Luckily I dug through my shit and found 4 angled slot screws to fit the angled shoes. The old shoes were straight cut. Don't ya just love bullshit problems like this?
I didn't notice it right away, and here's the wrong combo of parts that won't let the f'ing drum go on:
Anyway, here's the angled screws installed:
Chase the drum holes and put the drums on. I chased the new rotor holes too, and oddly enough a bit of metal was cut.
The new front hoses came and they fit a lot better.
M/C shit is all wrapped up, ready to bleed.
Not much left on the chassis, set the toe and bleed the brakes.
6V had a dried up gallon of Polar Silver that was used to paint this car, the paint was like a rock in the bottom because someone didn't put the lid on tight many years ago. I put an inch of reducer in there, let it sit a week and it came back to life! Let's start with some primer.
Mix that dried up shit real good, but what solvents do you use? It's a BC/CC setup, let's take a chance and use regular urethane reducer, hardener, and CC. Two coats of Polar Silver with urethane hardener:
Followed by two coats of clear coat:
And the dual reservoir. I'll let 6V do the final wet sand and buff.
Being that this is behind the spare tire, nobody will ever see it, so I'll shoot pics for you.
OK, the rear hardware finally arrived. Before finishing this off, lets get some lube into those brand new dry wheel bearings. They won't last two miles with no lube so I shot some Tef-Gel into them. It comes out as a liquid and sets up like Vaseline as a thin grease, great stuff. I learned the hard way many years ago when one of my guys at the shop put a HD truck together without lubing the wheel bearings. The oil from the diff doesn't get there immediately, and the bearings didn't make the road test. Never again....
I lubed the seal surface too and put the drum spacers on.
The rear shoes gave me an assache because the ends of the shoe and the adjusters weren't compatible.
Most of us have run across this before, but if the shoes are cut square (like the right one) you use an adjuster with a straight slot. If the shoes are cut at an angle (left) use use an angled slot. Luckily I dug through my shit and found 4 angled slot screws to fit the angled shoes. The old shoes were straight cut. Don't ya just love bullshit problems like this?
I didn't notice it right away, and here's the wrong combo of parts that won't let the f'ing drum go on:
Anyway, here's the angled screws installed:
Chase the drum holes and put the drums on. I chased the new rotor holes too, and oddly enough a bit of metal was cut.
The new front hoses came and they fit a lot better.
M/C shit is all wrapped up, ready to bleed.
Not much left on the chassis, set the toe and bleed the brakes.
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
Re: 1957 Oval
After the cruise and lunch, I went to Bruce's shop to learn a few things. I've bled brakes with friends before, but I was more than a little interested in a self bleed system that Bruce had.
I must say it was a unique experience, not because of the self bleeder, that was fine. It was unique because I (Mr VW guy who doesn't tighten anything properly) managed to break off a bleeder valve on the left rear wheel cylinder. Yes, I'm the guy who Chuck says can't tighten aything.
Well, woe is me.
I'll order a replacement tomorrow. Maybe two, so I can keep myself ahead of my missteps!
Anyway, I want to send a big thank you out to Bruce for his help and expertise in getting this bug ready to go. He did an exemplary job in sorting through all the brake and front end issues. The attention to detail by Bruce was unparrelled.
I don't know how much work Bruce wants to take on, but if you have VW in need of attention invovling things that are over your head, Bruce is the guy. Bruce is a profesional that can really teach you the deatils of what you need to know. And he has a lift in his shop!
I must say it was a unique experience, not because of the self bleeder, that was fine. It was unique because I (Mr VW guy who doesn't tighten anything properly) managed to break off a bleeder valve on the left rear wheel cylinder. Yes, I'm the guy who Chuck says can't tighten aything.
Well, woe is me.
I'll order a replacement tomorrow. Maybe two, so I can keep myself ahead of my missteps!Anyway, I want to send a big thank you out to Bruce for his help and expertise in getting this bug ready to go. He did an exemplary job in sorting through all the brake and front end issues. The attention to detail by Bruce was unparrelled.
I don't know how much work Bruce wants to take on, but if you have VW in need of attention invovling things that are over your head, Bruce is the guy. Bruce is a profesional that can really teach you the deatils of what you need to know. And he has a lift in his shop!
Re: 1957 Oval
Looking good. Getting close to seeing it on the road again. Bruce is The Pro, we can all learn a great deal from just watching him
1963 Single Cab
1964 Bowman & Sons Camper (Vegas Bus)
1966 Westy S0-42 Hardtop
1967 Westy SO-42 Pop Top
1968 Single Cab
1964 Bowman & Sons Camper (Vegas Bus)
1966 Westy S0-42 Hardtop
1967 Westy SO-42 Pop Top
1968 Single Cab
Re: 1957 Oval
Got a LOT of help today on wiring that had me stummped. Josh jumped in and some progress was achieved! Great to have LEAKOIL and friends like Josh!
Re: 1957 Oval
Are these the final steps to getting this on the road? Will we being seeing this at the Scenic Brewery?
It's Marla with an " L"
(My list of assets is just too long...)
(My list of assets is just too long...)
Re: 1957 Oval
It's still a little way off because of my incompetence and busy schedule, but its still a possibility. The photo of Josh speaks volumes. He's trying to comprehend an aftermarket flasher system with no diagram. I installed LED 6V tail lights from this guy: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... ?id=892796 Seems to be good quality. We can't work through the issues because the 6 wire turn signal switch we have is pretty beat. I order a replacement from WW. The LED guy said his flasher replaces the WW flasher and blinks at the speed of the original system. Bruce will understand LED draw, not me. Anyway, the LED guy sent me info on how to wire it up, but untill I get the switch, were in a holding pattern. The other issue is the horn. Ovals have this set up that will be a challenge for me to comprehend. Take a look: http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wired/wire ... _12_00.htm
Re: 1957 Oval
One other issue. Josh and I had a 3 mile Island experience with the wiper motor. We were charging the battery but in the end we were charging the wiper motor as well. Or we were melting it with the switch on. Anyway, we think the switch is good since it powers the motor, but the wiper motor was nearly melted. The back up didn't respond either so I reached out to a guy on the west coast who deals with VW wiper motors. His name is Don West. He gave me some info so I'll put it here. It may help other early bus or beetle owners. While I will ignore his comment about conversion to 12 V, here are his responses to my inquiries:
I can help I see a later beetle motor with spade terminals and if it has not had the out put drive changed it parks to the drivers side of the glass. On the out put shaft there is markings 21.6X is 58-64 Beetles 21X IS FOR 65-ON Beetles. 21.3X Is for ovals. I see you have a 3 terminal switch correct for the 56-57 oval. You need just a motor? I have one rebuilt in 6 volt with 4 screw terminals that matches your switch and uses the 31 ground for a wire to the frame mount bolt.
The 4 terminal motor not spade type but screw type is what the 56-57 had as #31 is ground screw that the wire runs from it to the main mount bolt to get ground for the unit. Like in the photo below the ground wire is the top terminal. You have the 3 terminal switch and this is the motor you would need for it. It is the only motor that can be converted to 12 volt. It is a permanent magnet motor it has magnetic power all the time. The early ovals had a band brake park coil magnet to auto park the arms after the switch is turned off. They used a 2 terminal switch and cannot be converted to 12 volt. Ovals were the only VW that had right and left hand drive motors. The part # starts with a L or R or no letters meant right hand drive. All motors park to the direction the terminals point when mounted,except the oval Beetle. The motor parks to the passenger side of the glass on left hand drive and on right hand drives you can use the motor from a 58-66 beetle and it parks to their passenger side,left hands driver side. The photo is of a NOS motor and shaft pivots powdercoated frame and linkage.
I can help I see a later beetle motor with spade terminals and if it has not had the out put drive changed it parks to the drivers side of the glass. On the out put shaft there is markings 21.6X is 58-64 Beetles 21X IS FOR 65-ON Beetles. 21.3X Is for ovals. I see you have a 3 terminal switch correct for the 56-57 oval. You need just a motor? I have one rebuilt in 6 volt with 4 screw terminals that matches your switch and uses the 31 ground for a wire to the frame mount bolt.
The 4 terminal motor not spade type but screw type is what the 56-57 had as #31 is ground screw that the wire runs from it to the main mount bolt to get ground for the unit. Like in the photo below the ground wire is the top terminal. You have the 3 terminal switch and this is the motor you would need for it. It is the only motor that can be converted to 12 volt. It is a permanent magnet motor it has magnetic power all the time. The early ovals had a band brake park coil magnet to auto park the arms after the switch is turned off. They used a 2 terminal switch and cannot be converted to 12 volt. Ovals were the only VW that had right and left hand drive motors. The part # starts with a L or R or no letters meant right hand drive. All motors park to the direction the terminals point when mounted,except the oval Beetle. The motor parks to the passenger side of the glass on left hand drive and on right hand drives you can use the motor from a 58-66 beetle and it parks to their passenger side,left hands driver side. The photo is of a NOS motor and shaft pivots powdercoated frame and linkage.
Re: 1957 Oval
Commonly when you see an overheated wiper motor it is because the linkage is seized and the motor is trying to turn linkage that cannot move. Check and see if your pivots are free where they go through the cowl panel. Good luck!
Bruce Amacker
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
Re: 1957 Oval
Great point. I never bothered to check it before putting it in other than seeing if the arms could move. But if the pivot shaft won't tun inside that barrel that comes through the sheet metal, we'd have the very condition you describe.Dual Port wrote:Commonly when you see an overheated wiper motor it is because the linkage is seized and the motor is trying to turn linkage that cannot move. Check and see if your pivots are free where they go through the cowl panel. Good luck!
I rummged around while Josh was still here and found a complete set of oval era linkage that moves freely. While I'm waiting for the turn signal switch to arrive, I'll pull the original linkage and make sure that pivot is functional. Then I'll pick the best of the two. Great input and many thanks.
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