1960 SO-23 A.K.A. Gunther

[Dual Port]

I don't know about a '60, but on my '66 those "mufflers" are not used when using replacement heater hoses from WW. I have a perfect spare pair on the shelf.......

[wwebner]

I don't know about a '60, but on my '66 those "mufflers" are not used when using replacement heater hoses from WW. I have a perfect spare pair on the shelf.......

60 was 40hp. they had smaller heater box outlets(fresh air and stale air) as did earlier 36 HP
along with smaller chassis duct connections.

[SlashKirk]

The new engine has been test run and almost ready....

[Marla]

I was planning on having to use the adapter to get the heat to work.

Thanks for all of the help on the engine Kirk. I will be scheduling a pick up soon!

[Marla]

Almost done with cleaning and painting the underside of the rear and the engine compartment. Still need to put the finish on the wheel wells and hit some areas that are light. I have been collecting and buying parts as well. I think I have almost everything.

One step closer to reinstallation.

[Ken]

Nice work Marla looks great!

[21window]

Very Nice!

What's that metal plate on the firewall? something Westfalia related?

[Marla]

A previous owner put that in to install seat belts. I took out the seat belts but left the plate and bolts. I didn't want holes.

[Dual Port]

Poor Gunther was born with small nuts, it became my task to remove these and install some nice big nuts.

This tranny appears to be a '67. Axle snubbers, 12v bell, but someone converted the axle ends to small nut. I didn't even know you could do that. I posted this on Samba and by the responses I'm not sure anyone knew that before. Someone must have drilled out the starter bushing hole larger to put the 6v bushing in rather than use the correct 6/12 bushing. Notice the thin wall breaking out. (not a big deal).


First, use the special tool to remove the outer stub axle bearing. It's homemade from a 10mm head stud, luckily I had these from my last dance with an axle.





Remove the outer housing, then the outer axle bearing snap ring. I need to have a talk with the last moron who worked on this, obviously he doesn't know the difference between internal and external snap rings. He had an internal ring where an external belongs.



Then remove the outer axle bearing with a puller.




I don't know who welded this but I hope it wasn't a LeakOiler. I could weld better with a couple of car batteries and jumper cables. This tab was actually loose to the touch.




I welded it up nice and solid while I had my Mig out.




WTF is this? Braze?



Tack a bolt to the big plug to remove it, then use a puller to pull the plug.



The last "mechanic" beat a chisel through both plugs, pried them out, and brazed the holes shut. Wow.



The outer housings are nearly identical at a glance, note the difference in distance between the wheel cylinder mount and the seal housing flange. She'll be going from 1.39 reduction to 1.26:1.



Chase all of the threads with a tap, even the spring plate mounts.





The last guy pinpricked the housing to tighten up the bearing, no big deal.



Clean and grade all of the bearings, most were junk! Luckily I had just enough to get the job done with two left over. I think about 10 were junk.

Install the stub axle retaining nut, torque to 108. Note the soft copper vise jaw pads.



Then use a dull chisel to lock the nut.



RTV the plug and drive it in with a seal driver so it's flush.



Gears installed, ready for the housing.



Clean the housing flanges, RTV them,



Install the housing and torque to 18.




Put the bearing spacer on.



The outer race is slip fit in the housing, the inner race is snug on the stub axle.







Ready to rock.



Push the axle seals into the housings.



It sure would be nice to have backing plates so I could install the seal housings....



Finding a pair of magnetic drain plugs would be a good idea, too.

[toolbox]

I wonder if it could be 181 parts. The thing in the US and Canada had late model IRS, in most other markets it was a reduction box swing axle.